See that right there? That’s a sweater sleeve. And do we wear sweaters in the summer? No. No, we do not. We wear sweaters in the fall.
How you doin’, Fall? Wanna come cozy up next to me on the couch so we can clink our mugs of mulled wine together and toast how awesome you are?
Why is fall so awesome? Well, besides comfy apparel and alcohol on the stovetop, it’s really all about the food. Everything becomes pumpkin flavored, and there’s not a thing wrong with that. And the jewel-toned vegetables that come out of the earth when the weather cools are really something to be celebrated. Ruby beets, emerald kale, golden squashes… If you ask me, Fall kicks Summer’s ass when it comes to produce. Hands down.
On this particular fall day, I decided to try something different with a few of the goodies we got from the local food cooperative that we just joined. There’s plenty of time in the season left for soups and stews and roasting vegetables in the oven with olive oil and sea salt. Come February, I’ll admit that I usually suffer from root veggie burnout from doing the same things to them over and over. So, with beets and turnip greens as the stars of my feast, I took on a pancake and a tart, respectively, for this chilly fall evening meal.
I adapted these recipes from two of my favorite sources – Vegetarian Times and 101 Cookbooks. If I’m being totally honest here –and I am – I’ll admit that neither of these were easy dishes to make and I kind of wish I hadn’t made them both together. Separately? Sure. I could see having the beet cakes stuffed into a whole grain pita shell and served with some oven-roasted potato wedges. Or the turnip green tart with a side salad and maybe a little fruit. But not together. It was just too much work.
Beet Pancakes with Dill Yogurt Sauce (adapted from Vegetarian Times’ recipe, here)
Dill Yogurt Sauce
- 6 oz. plain nonfat Greek yogurt
- 2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
- 2 Tbs. lemon juice
- 1 small clove garlic, chopped
- ½ tsp. salt
- ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 3 medium [I used 6 small] beets (1 lb.), trimmed and scrubbed
- 2 medium carrots (6 oz.)
- 2 cloves garlic, minced (2 tsp.)
- ½ tsp. salt
- 1 large egg plus 2 large egg whites, beaten
To make Yogurt-Dill Sauce: Whisk together yogurt, dill, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper in small bowl. Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.
To make Pancakes: Preheat oven to 250°F. Coat baking sheet with cooking spray, and set aside. Shred beets and carrots in food processor fitted with grating blade, or grate with box grater. Place beet-carrot mixture in large bowl, and toss with garlic and salt. Add egg and egg whites, and mix well.
Lightly spray large nonstick skillet with cooking spray, and heat over medium-high heat. Drop 1/4 cup beet mixture into skillet, and flatten slightly to form 3-inch-diameter pancake. Repeat, forming 3 other pancakes in pan. Cook 4 minutes, or until undersides are golden brown. Flip pancakes, and cook 3 minutes more. Respray pan, and repeat process with remaining batter, keeping prepared pancakes warm in oven. Drizzle with Yogurt-Dill Sauce, and serve immediately.
The verdict? They were a little difficult to keep together in the frying pan. They didn’t seem to be bound together well enough. The flavor was okay – it was what you’d expect from eating beets and carrots together. Very earthy, very… beety. Without a good roast on them to mellow them out and enhance their sweetness, I think beets can be a little powerful, so I think if I made this recipe again I’d maybe swap out a beet or two for a potato of the same size, to make these more hash-like, and to soften the flavor up a bit. I’d also season them more. I think that some paprika would have been lovely in here, or a heavy dash of chopped herbs like tarragon and flat parsley. Topped with that yogurt sauce (which I could have eaten all by itself with a spoon. Yum.), these would be really yummy in a pita pocket with some fresh greens and a bit of feta or chevre. So, I don’t want to write these pancakes off entirely… they just need a bit more pizzazz and a helping hand from the spice cabinet.
Turnip Green Tart (adapted from 101 Cookbooks’ recipe, here)
I did a few things differently here. For one, when I parbaked my tart, I didn’t cover it with parchment and dry beans, as the author instructs in her original version, because I didn’t have parchment paper. It still turned out fine. Also, Heidi’s recipe calls for Gruyere cheese, which I also didn’t have. So I used a sheep’s milk queso fresco, whose creaminess worked really well with the mustardy zip of the tart’s filling. Finally, I omitted the red pepper flakes and used whole wheat flour instead of spelt. Note that doubling this recipe is a lot easier for measurement purposes, so Heidi did just that and made two tart shells. I had no interest in doing that, so I halved everything and made just one. To simplify the prep, feel free to double everything below to make two shells.
Cornmeal Tart Shell:
- 1 1/8 cups all-purpose flour
- ½ cup whole wheat flour
- 1 cup corn meal
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ¾ cup unsalted butter, cut in cubes
- 1/2 large egg yolk (*use the other half in filling mixture. See below.)
- 1/4 cup – 3/4 cup cold water
Turnip Green Filling:
- 1/4 lb. turnip greens
- 1 small clove of garlic
- 2 large eggs + 1/2 yolk (*use the other half from your tart shell)
- 3/4 cup veg. broth
- 1/4 cup milk or cream
- scant 1/4 teaspoon salt (more if broth unsalted)
- 2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard
- 1 1/2 teaspoons all-purpose seasoning, Herbs de Provence, or other herb blend
- ½ cup sheep’s milk cheese, Gruyere, chevre, or other cheese
Process flours, cornmeal, and salt in food processor. Add butter and pulse 20-30 times. Add the egg yolk and 1/4 cup water. Pulse, trickle in more water if needed, just until dough comes together. Turn out onto a floured countertop and gather into a ball. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill for at least an hour.
Preheat the oven to 350 F.
Carefully roll out dough on a floured surface to about 1/8” thickness and transfer to tart pan. Press all around the surface of the dough with the heel of your hand and be sure to fix any holes. Use your rolling pin to trim off any excess. Bake for 25 minutes.
For the filling, process turnip greens and garlic in the food processor. Add the eggs and yolk, pulse. Then the broth and cream. Lastly, incorporate the salt, mustard, and herbs. When you’re ready to bake, fill the tart shell and bake for 30 minutes or so, or until the center is set, and has firmed up to the touch. When there’s only 10 minutes left on your oven timer, top the tart with the shredded or crumbled cheese of choice.
This one was a pretty big success. The toddler loved it, which is the only true barometer of what’s considered a good meal in our household. It was a lot of work, a lot of prep time, but worth it. A great, outside-the-box recipe to use up those bright fall greens in a creative and satisfying way. I’m going to keep this one in my bag of tricks and try it with spinach, arugula, maybe even chard. With a sweater on my arms and warm wine in my hand, I can do no wrong.
Happy Fall, all!